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Old 07-26-2012, 10:48 PM   #41
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I used the Lexal on my 2209T endcap. I guess I'll have to keep a close eye on it to make sure it stays put.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PopRichie77 View Post
In view of the above post ,

Where NOT To Use:

• Areas of submersion where there is animal life (i.e. aquariums)
• With polystyrene insulation
• Containment applications
• Plastics not listed should be tested for compatibility before use
• Will not adhere to or is incompatible with Aquaseal®*, cultured marble,Kynar®*,
polypropylene, polystyrene foam insulation, polyethylene, rubber, silicone, styrofoam (it
dissolves it), Teflon®*, vulcanized rubber, waxes

Based on that Lexal should not be used on the plastic end caps found on may Hi-Lo's as it will not adhere to it.
I was going to get Lexal to recaulk some spots on my end caps that are starting to come loose, looks like I will use something else.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:51 AM   #42
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Good Morning All:

I am glad to see there is a curiousity response to the Silicone/Caulking posts.

Sam: I opened a bit of "can of worms" on your last query. "Another caulk mentioned by a forum member was Sika(might not be the total correct name.) What would be the particulars on this one? "
To find out, I typed in Sika and chose the following for starters.

Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor
Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor

5 reviews

Jun 14, 2012 – 5 Sika Corporation reviews. A free inside look at company reviews and salaries posted anonymously by employees.


I suggest you read these Pros and Cons carefully. The only commment I would have to make concerning this product is this. It looks like it is a 50/50 situation concerning this manufacturer. Where there are disgruntled workers expressing themselves as they are doing there, you can bet quality of the product will be reflected.

In this case I would again say... "buyer beware."

This is one good thing about the InterNet. A viewer can get a reasonably good look at the insides of a company, without having to walk through their doors. I'm not saying the viewer has to believe everything that is posted, but at least you can now make a gamblers choice.

Dabbler
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:11 PM   #43
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Seems, there are many Silkaflex products, this one says it adheres to plastic.
Sikaflex 221 Adhesive Sealant
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:11 PM   #44
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Default Sikaflex caulk

Dabbler,Nothing wrong in being an informed consumer. Just like driving somewhere,many ways to go and they all are correct. The sikaflex website looks interesting. Check out Epoxy and Adhesives. Haven't used sikaflex caulk as we are happy with Lexal and it is redily available at my local Ace Hardwear store. I did recently see sikaflex at Home Depot. Love these kinds of discussions as our forum would be boring without new topics.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:21 AM   #45
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Right you are Sam, but I would add the following to all roads being correct. I've traveled some roads, that even though I got to where I wanted to go... I would never make the same trip again. Some have been very costly. (A tounge in cheek comment!)

Yes if you find a product that works and you are satisfied with it, stick with it.

I climbed up on the roof of our HiLo to view the damages. Oh my!!

I cleaned and sealed a good number of pitted openings, as well as the "T" bar molding that couples panels. After researching some more, and finding that this product is sold locally, I am going to go with Kool Seal Premium White 63-600 Elastomeric roof coating. Prior to that I will scrub the roof with TSP. I pressure washed our house prior to painting it in 1981, using TSP to remove oxidation. The paint has faded from years of weathering, but it held stedfast, no pealing.

I will use the manufacturers recommended Kool Flex Reinforcing Grid tape to go over all of my most recent sealer, as well as the "T" bar molding that joins the roof panels. After which I will give the roof (2) coats of 63-600. I notice there are pit holes in the sides of the camper as well. These too will have to go before painting, but will not use the same technique as on the roof. More research.

The thought arises... is it worth investing time, energy, and money into this animal. I surely hope so. I'm not about to give it up so readily, that someone else may reap the benefits.

Dabbler
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Old 07-29-2012, 12:29 PM   #46
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Default More repairs

It sounds like your roof is aluminum? Your roof repairs plan seems good. We didn't have any roof repairs. However last year dh did coat it with kool seal,two coats. This year he just has to do a few small spots of touch up. Others have had many pin holes in alum. roof. Yes, it is a lot of work initially. It will pay big dividends when it is raining "Noas ark" and you are hi and dry. Read some of the back posts on roof rebuild/repair. We recentlyhave had to add a couple of rubber roof patches where the side turnesto meet the wall. Eventually, we might need to replace the entire roof. I am not suprised that you have pin holes in your fiberglass siding. Not sure how you would seal them from the outside. We sealed the two panels we tore out to the skin with 3M bondo. Like you say,more research. Sealed from the inside. Lots of work,but it would cost you thousands if you could buy this trailer new. Chin up,eventually you will be camping.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:04 PM   #47
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Dabbler,

"The thought arises... is it worth investing time, energy, and money into this animal. I surely hope so. I'm not about to give it up so readily, that someone else may reap the benefits. Dabbler".

After buying our Hi Lo last year and discovering the very same roof problems you are now addressing, and after doing the taping and patching and application of the Kool White elastomeric paint, my neighbor came over and looked at the repairs. He asked me, why bother, why didn't you just sell it and get another? He thought the repairs I made to the roof may scare off a potential buyer.

I pointed out that with all I had invested in the unit, if I had just left it alone, the damage would have been multiplied 10-fold. While the patch-work may frighten off a potential buyer when we do decide to sell it, one who is knowledgeable about roofs will probably be more appreciative of the repairs with the knowledge that it should not leak.

As it is, for now, all I have remaining to do is replace some sections of the ceiling tile that erupted from the water and eventual drying. If I have to eventually replace the roof, I will do so to protect our investment.

He did tell me that as a building contractor, he had the exact same aluminum roofing and seam joints as is on the roof of the Hi Lo and it would probably have been less expensive to replace the aluminum roofing than do all the patching and applying the tape to all the junctures and painting. That may be something I will consider doing later.

For now, we are going to enjoy our Hi Lo and have peace of mind when it begins to rain.

Jerry Curtis
2406 T
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:30 PM   #48
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More Repairs:

Regarding our HiLO. It is a 2180 FunChaser D. The siding is aluminum with what I would refer to as a horizontal "Slat Ribbed" embossment every 8" or so, which acts as a reinforcement to prevent warping. The bottom edge on both sides of the top section, will have to be repaired with alumnum angle. I will use the Butyl tape on the inside of the angle, and drive SS screws through predrilled holes from beneath, into the wood frame.

When all is said and done, it will have to be primed with base coating for aluminum adherance, then repainted a desired finished color.

Sounds easy doesn't it? Sure...

JCurtis95:

Your contractor friend said it might be cheaper to replace the roofing rather than repair it. Maybe so, but... was he refering to material only, or material plus an experienced installation contractor's wages encluded?

Just thinking out loud... Dabbler
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:50 PM   #49
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Sam:

I can't help laughing... I just finished reading your Feb. 2012 Post. You and family went out to dinner, after which you bought new toilets.

Yes, I know you corrected your statement at the end of the post, but the cat was already out of the bag.

By-the-way... how are your new toilets holding up?

Dabbler... (with a flexible sense of humor.)

My Urologist (God Love Him) got this response from me after he Emailed me, he rewired his bathroom. I told him he shouldn't give up his day job.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabbler View Post
Good Morning All:

I am glad to see there is a curiousity response to the Silicone/Caulking posts.

Sam: I opened a bit of "can of worms" on your last query. "Another caulk mentioned by a forum member was Sika(might not be the total correct name.) What would be the particulars on this one? "
To find out, I typed in Sika and chose the following for starters.

Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor
Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor

5 reviews

Jun 14, 2012 – 5 Sika Corporation reviews. A free inside look at company reviews and salaries posted anonymously by employees.


I suggest you read these Pros and Cons carefully. The only commment I would have to make concerning this product is this. It looks like it is a 50/50 situation concerning this manufacturer. Where there are disgruntled workers expressing themselves as they are doing there, you can bet quality of the product will be reflected.

In this case I would again say... "buyer beware."

This is one good thing about the InterNet. A viewer can get a reasonably good look at the insides of a company, without having to walk through their doors. I'm not saying the viewer has to believe everything that is posted, but at least you can now make a gamblers choice.

Dabbler
I found that silkaflex 1a bonded to alumium,fiberglass and plastic better than sikaflex 221. It may be harder to locate for some people but I use it the sheetmetal trade.
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