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Old 07-26-2012, 10:48 PM   #41
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I used the Lexal on my 2209T endcap. I guess I'll have to keep a close eye on it to make sure it stays put.

Quote:
Originally Posted by PopRichie77 View Post
In view of the above post ,

Where NOT To Use:

• Areas of submersion where there is animal life (i.e. aquariums)
• With polystyrene insulation
• Containment applications
• Plastics not listed should be tested for compatibility before use
• Will not adhere to or is incompatible with Aquaseal®*, cultured marble,Kynar®*,
polypropylene, polystyrene foam insulation, polyethylene, rubber, silicone, styrofoam (it
dissolves it), Teflon®*, vulcanized rubber, waxes

Based on that Lexal should not be used on the plastic end caps found on may Hi-Lo's as it will not adhere to it.
I was going to get Lexal to recaulk some spots on my end caps that are starting to come loose, looks like I will use something else.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:51 AM   #42
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Good Morning All:

I am glad to see there is a curiousity response to the Silicone/Caulking posts.

Sam: I opened a bit of "can of worms" on your last query. "Another caulk mentioned by a forum member was Sika(might not be the total correct name.) What would be the particulars on this one? "
To find out, I typed in Sika and chose the following for starters.

Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor
Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor

5 reviews

Jun 14, 2012 – 5 Sika Corporation reviews. A free inside look at company reviews and salaries posted anonymously by employees.


I suggest you read these Pros and Cons carefully. The only commment I would have to make concerning this product is this. It looks like it is a 50/50 situation concerning this manufacturer. Where there are disgruntled workers expressing themselves as they are doing there, you can bet quality of the product will be reflected.

In this case I would again say... "buyer beware."

This is one good thing about the InterNet. A viewer can get a reasonably good look at the insides of a company, without having to walk through their doors. I'm not saying the viewer has to believe everything that is posted, but at least you can now make a gamblers choice.

Dabbler
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:11 PM   #43
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Seems, there are many Silkaflex products, this one says it adheres to plastic.
Sikaflex 221 Adhesive Sealant
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:11 PM   #44
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Default Sikaflex caulk

Dabbler,Nothing wrong in being an informed consumer. Just like driving somewhere,many ways to go and they all are correct. The sikaflex website looks interesting. Check out Epoxy and Adhesives. Haven't used sikaflex caulk as we are happy with Lexal and it is redily available at my local Ace Hardwear store. I did recently see sikaflex at Home Depot. Love these kinds of discussions as our forum would be boring without new topics.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:21 AM   #45
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Right you are Sam, but I would add the following to all roads being correct. I've traveled some roads, that even though I got to where I wanted to go... I would never make the same trip again. Some have been very costly. (A tounge in cheek comment!)

Yes if you find a product that works and you are satisfied with it, stick with it.

I climbed up on the roof of our HiLo to view the damages. Oh my!!

I cleaned and sealed a good number of pitted openings, as well as the "T" bar molding that couples panels. After researching some more, and finding that this product is sold locally, I am going to go with Kool Seal Premium White 63-600 Elastomeric roof coating. Prior to that I will scrub the roof with TSP. I pressure washed our house prior to painting it in 1981, using TSP to remove oxidation. The paint has faded from years of weathering, but it held stedfast, no pealing.

I will use the manufacturers recommended Kool Flex Reinforcing Grid tape to go over all of my most recent sealer, as well as the "T" bar molding that joins the roof panels. After which I will give the roof (2) coats of 63-600. I notice there are pit holes in the sides of the camper as well. These too will have to go before painting, but will not use the same technique as on the roof. More research.

The thought arises... is it worth investing time, energy, and money into this animal. I surely hope so. I'm not about to give it up so readily, that someone else may reap the benefits.

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Old 07-29-2012, 12:29 PM   #46
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Default More repairs

It sounds like your roof is aluminum? Your roof repairs plan seems good. We didn't have any roof repairs. However last year dh did coat it with kool seal,two coats. This year he just has to do a few small spots of touch up. Others have had many pin holes in alum. roof. Yes, it is a lot of work initially. It will pay big dividends when it is raining "Noas ark" and you are hi and dry. Read some of the back posts on roof rebuild/repair. We recentlyhave had to add a couple of rubber roof patches where the side turnesto meet the wall. Eventually, we might need to replace the entire roof. I am not suprised that you have pin holes in your fiberglass siding. Not sure how you would seal them from the outside. We sealed the two panels we tore out to the skin with 3M bondo. Like you say,more research. Sealed from the inside. Lots of work,but it would cost you thousands if you could buy this trailer new. Chin up,eventually you will be camping.
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Old 07-29-2012, 01:04 PM   #47
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Dabbler,

"The thought arises... is it worth investing time, energy, and money into this animal. I surely hope so. I'm not about to give it up so readily, that someone else may reap the benefits. Dabbler".

After buying our Hi Lo last year and discovering the very same roof problems you are now addressing, and after doing the taping and patching and application of the Kool White elastomeric paint, my neighbor came over and looked at the repairs. He asked me, why bother, why didn't you just sell it and get another? He thought the repairs I made to the roof may scare off a potential buyer.

I pointed out that with all I had invested in the unit, if I had just left it alone, the damage would have been multiplied 10-fold. While the patch-work may frighten off a potential buyer when we do decide to sell it, one who is knowledgeable about roofs will probably be more appreciative of the repairs with the knowledge that it should not leak.

As it is, for now, all I have remaining to do is replace some sections of the ceiling tile that erupted from the water and eventual drying. If I have to eventually replace the roof, I will do so to protect our investment.

He did tell me that as a building contractor, he had the exact same aluminum roofing and seam joints as is on the roof of the Hi Lo and it would probably have been less expensive to replace the aluminum roofing than do all the patching and applying the tape to all the junctures and painting. That may be something I will consider doing later.

For now, we are going to enjoy our Hi Lo and have peace of mind when it begins to rain.

Jerry Curtis
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Old 07-29-2012, 07:30 PM   #48
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More Repairs:

Regarding our HiLO. It is a 2180 FunChaser D. The siding is aluminum with what I would refer to as a horizontal "Slat Ribbed" embossment every 8" or so, which acts as a reinforcement to prevent warping. The bottom edge on both sides of the top section, will have to be repaired with alumnum angle. I will use the Butyl tape on the inside of the angle, and drive SS screws through predrilled holes from beneath, into the wood frame.

When all is said and done, it will have to be primed with base coating for aluminum adherance, then repainted a desired finished color.

Sounds easy doesn't it? Sure...

JCurtis95:

Your contractor friend said it might be cheaper to replace the roofing rather than repair it. Maybe so, but... was he refering to material only, or material plus an experienced installation contractor's wages encluded?

Just thinking out loud... Dabbler
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Old 07-29-2012, 08:50 PM   #49
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Sam:

I can't help laughing... I just finished reading your Feb. 2012 Post. You and family went out to dinner, after which you bought new toilets.

Yes, I know you corrected your statement at the end of the post, but the cat was already out of the bag.

By-the-way... how are your new toilets holding up?

Dabbler... (with a flexible sense of humor.)

My Urologist (God Love Him) got this response from me after he Emailed me, he rewired his bathroom. I told him he shouldn't give up his day job.
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Old 07-29-2012, 09:37 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dabbler View Post
Good Morning All:

I am glad to see there is a curiousity response to the Silicone/Caulking posts.

Sam: I opened a bit of "can of worms" on your last query. "Another caulk mentioned by a forum member was Sika(might not be the total correct name.) What would be the particulars on this one? "
To find out, I typed in Sika and chose the following for starters.

Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor
Sika Corporation Reviews | Glassdoor

5 reviews

Jun 14, 2012 – 5 Sika Corporation reviews. A free inside look at company reviews and salaries posted anonymously by employees.


I suggest you read these Pros and Cons carefully. The only commment I would have to make concerning this product is this. It looks like it is a 50/50 situation concerning this manufacturer. Where there are disgruntled workers expressing themselves as they are doing there, you can bet quality of the product will be reflected.

In this case I would again say... "buyer beware."

This is one good thing about the InterNet. A viewer can get a reasonably good look at the insides of a company, without having to walk through their doors. I'm not saying the viewer has to believe everything that is posted, but at least you can now make a gamblers choice.

Dabbler
I found that silkaflex 1a bonded to alumium,fiberglass and plastic better than sikaflex 221. It may be harder to locate for some people but I use it the sheetmetal trade.
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Old 07-29-2012, 10:58 PM   #51
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Default Fixing HiLo Roof.

Our ADA toilets in our house are th next best thing to sliced bread!! Our toilet riser in the Hi Lo also gets five stars. No leaks and worth every penny in comfort. DH and daughter go to bed by 10pm. I like to stay up later and read.So that I don't disturb them I go into the Br and pull the heavy panel closed. Next I place a pillow at my back and one on the toilet(seat closed.) I sit on the toilet in complete comfort. Happy as a clam reading a good book. I've been known to read a long while with a trouble lt. at the campfire. One time it was raining and I still had a campfire . Just sat under a huge umbrella and conversed with another HiLo owner. We live in the city and can't have any kind of fire..so it is a real treat for me. I grew up in the country and our family always hosted a huge neighborhood bonfire/cornroast. My dad was a fabulous inventor of great campfire stories.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:30 AM   #52
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Your contractor friend said it might be cheaper to replace the roofing rather than repair it. Maybe so, but... was he refering to material only, or material plus an experienced installation contractor's wages encluded? Just thinking out loud... Dabbler

Dabbler, Since I am a D.I.Y. type guy, he was speaking of materials only. I really didn't get into the mechanics of it but when I repaired my roof, I removed the gutter guards and saw how the roofing was stapled down the sidewall. The critical steps, I would think, would be putting a crisp 90 degree fold in the roof panels at the wall/roof juncture, aligning the panels for correct abutment, and applying the seam joints. He said he could help me do it too and that would mean a lot. I have no plans to do so unless necessary.

Jerry Curtis
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:46 AM   #53
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jcurtis95

Should you decide a total roof replacement is what you want to attempt, these two items will come in handy; a portable light weight sheet metal brake, the purchase of aluminum metal joint strips. The brake you should be able to acquire from a rental center. The aluminum joint strips would be special ordered. I am certain your friend would know of an outlet.

As I mentioned before, my trailer (2180D FunChaser) has aluminum siding... the jointing strips are aluminum also. Both panels and strips have a 90 degree bend as they come down over the edge of the top.

I am guessing the roof panels, and strips... even though they are stapled at the sides, are free floating on the top. It would make sense this possible to allow flexing the trailer is capable of, while on the move.

I'm not certain I would attempt the task on my own, but certainly would use all the help I could get from a knowledgable tradesman.

Good Luck
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Old 07-30-2012, 12:58 PM   #54
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Dabbler,

So long as the taping and elastomeric paint hold up and the roof doesn't leak, I will be satisfied to leave it as is for now. I believe the paint is supposed to last up to 7 or 8 years and I have plenty remaining to give it additional coats if needed.

My next door neighbor and friend used to own the construction company in Wisconsin and has agreed to stay on with them for a few years after he sold it. He said he had everything that was on the RV roof, including the strips. I didn't ask, but I am assuming the strips have staples already fixed into the mold as I saw no evidence of stapling from the top side before I taped over them. Of course my vision isn't what it used to be and they may have been painted. They might have a special machine for applying [?].

I was/am concerned that before I made the repairs, there may have been enough water introduced to the plywood decking that allowed the staples/nails to become loose. There are ends of [3] strips that 'flex' when pressure is applied, like there may be an air bubble underneath. This runs for just a short distance in each of the three strips; maybe 12 to 14 inches. I am curious if I should try adding a few staples to cinch them down as all other locations are firm and have no such play? I am certain that no rain water is getting in but I would not want the strips to extend the range where they are loose. I have noticed no soft spots anywhere on the roof that would indicate deck degradation.

I have talked to J&R about this and was told if the pieces have become de-laminated, they still have the factory laminating equipment for replacement sections for the roof [or wall]. According to what they told me, these laminated sections are complete from the outer skin to the ceiling tile.

For now I am going to try and patch the ceiling tile where it has erupted along the roadside wall. Too much water had been introduced [and for no telling how long], before I noticed it and made the repairs. As the water damaged areas dried, the thin wafer board inside began to deteriorate with the heat of summer. I had found a way to remove some of the wrinkles by ironing them out but when I raised the Hi Lo a couple of weeks ago, they were back as bad as ever.

If I have to replace the entire roof, J&R said they could make the sections to my specifications and ship them to me if I wanted to do it myself. My friend said if it comes to that, he would pick them up for me on one of his trips back here.

Hopefully, I will not have to go through all that.

Jerry Curtis
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Old 07-31-2012, 07:53 AM   #55
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Several years ago we had some work done at our home. Our handy man was able to use a sheet metal brake at the place where siding and related materials are sold. This might work if you only had a few pieces to bend. Perhaps the place where you get your materials could recommend a contractor that would be willing to bend a few pieces for you . Perhaps,I could rent out my sheet metal fabricator husband !!
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