Glue used in water damage restoration.
 

Through a process of trying several glues we found Heavy Duty liquid nails to work for us. We were doing our repairs in the cold north between Sept. and Feb. Use a generous amt in a big s pattern. Possibly one tube per sheet of material. Then DH used a floor roller to make sure all the layers adhered. Something like"taking it by force".It has been five years and all has held up very well. Walmart has the best price on HD liquid nails.

I have actually used a few different things ... I like this one best so far, an FRP adhesive that you can spread across the panels.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Titebond-Gr...-fl-oz/3227253

I used the liquid nails too, and really like it for somethings. I didn't like that it was casing some of the foam to melt when I was using it around those parts of the trailer.

I completely agree with Sam though - don't underuse the glue. No need to be sparing.

Hey I am glad I found this thread. I am suffering from damaged wood in the lower section where the cable wraps around. My understanding is that a plow pushed snow up to the side over the winter and that caused water to work its way up under there. I see you replaced the lower wood framing of the top, but would that be possible to do without complete wall removal? My walls are ok other than peeling interior paper and the thin veneer wood so i hate to tear them down if not necessary, but not sure how to get the wood in there with the top in place and walls in place.

Sent you a PM
 

Dh will explain the steps for repairs. It is too long for a post.

Howdy - that's a good question. I had to think about it for a minute but the answer should be yes. There's actually a really nice PDF running around here that shows a rebuild of just a wall section being redone under a window that leaked. The beam was shot there too and it was replaced without a total deconstruction. Do a search for 2002 Hi-lo rebuild summary and you might find it here on the forum.

Depending on where it's rotted, there are a couple of things you could do. The wood sits inside the metal outer frame (tubular structure) and there are also places where the wall itself is bolted through to that beam to add strength. The factory used lag bolts that you can't really see unless you're in full tear-down but you could run up against one.

I would raise the top and support the top on either side of the rotted and damaged beam area. You can keep the cables tight and lifted though. The metal tube structure is the outermost part of the wall at the bottom so there's strength there even if you don't support around the damage. I used hi-lift jacks to support. From the inside with everything supported now pull the cover off the rotted beam and go digging. Pull anything and everything that's damaged. If it goes up and into the wall go after it.

With the damaged goods removed, you can start to replace things. I'd recommend a 4x4 to replace damaged beam material. You an 'notch' it to fit nicely where you pulled the old stuff out.

I hope that helps - shoot me a note with some questions if you like, or keep us posted on this list in general. There are some great folk here with good experience.

... and if what Sam passes along sounds good ... I'd do that. Lots of great experience there.

67 Northern gave good advice
 

Here are some back posts that you can do a search for. This one explains how to replace the seal between the halves. Outline for replacing roof gasket 4-3-2010. Search for this one also Cable replacement in my 1998 HiLo 24TD 3-3-2010.This document is fifteen pages on cable replacement. It also explains about breaking the HiLo apart and the use of 2x4s to support the corners. Keep the questions coming. You can do these repairs for your 1989 HiLo.

A few pics of some progress on the rebuild. Most of the paint is in place I've got the walls covered with vinyl flooring that you can get at Lowes. The trick with that stuff is to add some additional glue to the backside to get it to fully stick (ask me how I know ... )

And there are a other odds and ends now being taken care of. It seems like more progress was being made when there were acres and acres of old rotted wood being pulled out. The small stuff sure takes a while!

You'll see the cabinets are back in, and the green padding is gone. I replaced it with automotive headliner and used headliner glue to get it attached. I'll keep rolling along on it. Next I'll probably head back outside to shore up some sealing on various things.

Wow! I Really like the color accents. If I ever make down your way again I'll drop off my trailer and pick it up when you've finished.:D

All your hard work shows !!
 

Love what you have done. It is very light and fresh looking. You will be able to enjoy your HiLo for many years.

VERY pretty! Blue is my favorite color. *grin*

- Jack

Thanks - but don't get too excited about dropping yours off, my turnaround speed isn't so great - don't forget I've been working on this for almost a year :)

Went back outside ... more sealing in place now. I decided that I liked using the 'super tape' (Eternabond) more than the factory method of sealing the end caps so here we go...

I took care of the terrible front window seal too, cut some of the extra roof material to shape, it should seal and hold it better than it was. I hope :)

2003 hi-lo
 

How do you get access to the beam on the bottom? I think mine has dry rot as well.

There are a few ways to go about this depending on where and how much rot I think. Mine was so bad that the entire wall was removed and exposed the beam that way. Full pictures here:

https://flic.kr/s/aHskGjjPyn

But there’s also a method that I’ve seen done on the forums where a chunk is removed from inside and replaced with a suitably cut 4x4. You can look around for a PDF called “2002 Hi-Lo Rebuild Summary”

Let me know what you think and I (and others too) will be happy to help a much as possible.

I like it. I saw a post where they held down solar panels with Eternabond

If you had used gray duct tape it counts as chrome trim in the trailer park. Why didnt you caulk it instead? rhetorical question….

You know, I did actually use some caulk too. There's a bit of it in key areas under the eternabond, but I wanted something that would be able to add adhesive between the caps and sides like the old screws did - the tape is tough stuff, seemed like a good way to go.

Of course, if you're asking about the window, that thing was just a disaster. A poorly done replace after the factory original had a door open into it with the rock guard removed. There was a ton of caulk around that window and it still leaked, and seemed poorly seated. The tape adds some nice sealing and mechanical hold-down too

But I think I hear you loud and clear - I should be using more duct tape :)

Merry Christmas everyone,

I thought I would post a few pics of interior progress from the past couple of months. Still a couple of things left but she's pretty much usable again. As usual, here's the full album link:

https://flic.kr/s/aHskGjjPyn

For the first time in years the front window cover is back on, there's been some work done waterproofing the shower area too (thanks to some extra roof material) and my wife's amazing curtains and flexible wall are installed too.

So I hear that camping is fun, I've really got to try that sometime. :)

Great stuff! Starting to look like normal. You'll be there before you know it. Inspiring.
Merry Christmas, my friend, always liked my 2000 24'er
Tree