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Old 10-03-2023, 02:21 PM   #141
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As an alternative to a rubber roof, please have a look at this thread: https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f35...374/#post56860 starting at Post #4 where Rob, who was formerly with J&R Repair recommends a tape product. Note that he specifically recommends against rubber roofs.

- Jack
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Old 10-03-2023, 11:05 PM   #142
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We had a rubber roof on our 1990. Just caught the start of a leak and used a 25ft.rubber roof patch kit. DH used the appropriate roof coating. Also used externa bond tape. The current owner is a RV tech and states he hasn't had to do anything in the way of repairs. I read the post from J&R. Wish i had seen this before Dh used externa bond tape.
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Old 10-04-2023, 08:46 AM   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dledgerwood View Post
Thanks for this info. Luckily, we have no need of it now, and the wife and I agree that there is a long road ahead of us.

In your rebuild, did you have an aluminum outer skin, or something else? If aluminum, did you try to salvage it or change to fiberglass? Understanding this will have a huge impact on how to begin the tear down.
Right, so the 2000 that I rebuilt had fiberglass outer skin so it's a bit of a different beast. I'm not exactly sure how the aluminum is affixed to the different layers that make up the wall but I guess it would be the same. I know I've seen some work that has been posted about tow-lites with some similar aluminum skins where window replacement was underway. See if you can dig that up and get a look at that, it could be revealing.

Either way - salvage the skin and reuse it as the outer shell. It's already the right shape. The roof is different. The aluminum roof can pit and corrode and I cut away large parts of my own as I went through it. Then with new foam and plywood layers in place, re-skinned it with peel-stick aluminum roof product (same as suggested in the reply above - so what you see on the rebuild pictures is this same product). So far so good on it holding, and I keep an eye on it.
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Old 10-06-2023, 11:31 PM   #144
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Default Thank you all for the information

I appreciate the extra info and advice. We're talking about the trailer and what we want to do. In my mind, we either fully commit to the project, or cut bait and go. If we move forward, I'll post pics here on this forum and hopefully it won't illicit too much ptsd in those who've done this before.
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Old 10-08-2023, 01:43 PM   #145
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Keep us posted!
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Old 01-14-2024, 03:35 PM   #146
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Originally Posted by r67northern View Post
Quick update on the rebuild. I've got the new beam cut and ready for install after I clean up all of the rusted metal around it. It's an unusual approach, but it should add some nice strength to the damaged metal frame and also lets me drop the wood beam in from the "top" without pulling the halves apart.

IMGP3202 by Lineswest, on Flickr

Basically, I started with a 4x4 and cut a 1x1 notch so that it fits over the lower metal frame. I cut a second 1x1 notch so that I can reattach wall structure more easily.

IMGP3207 by Lineswest, on Flickr

Underside view:
IMGP3206 by Lineswest, on Flickr

Happy thanksgiving everyone.
-Leland
Leland, I have a question for you.

When you used the 4x4 timbers to stiffen your frame rail, why did you cut the notch on the top side of the timber?
I understand why you cut the bottom side 1”x1” to cradle/support frame, but I am curious why cut the top 1”x1”?

Was it have a place for the insulation board to fit and to slide the interior panel into it to hold it? Or to lighten it some? I was considering not cutting the top side to keep the integrity of the 4”x4”.

Just curious on your thoughts.
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Old 01-15-2024, 04:05 PM   #147
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Leland, I have a question for you.

When you used the 4x4 timbers to stiffen your frame rail, why did you cut the notch on the top side of the timber?
I understand why you cut the bottom side 1”x1” to cradle/support frame, but I am curious why cut the top 1”x1”?

Was it have a place for the insulation board to fit and to slide the interior panel into it to hold it? Or to lighten it some? I was considering not cutting the top side to keep the integrity of the 4”x4”.

Just curious on your thoughts.
Good question! I did it to maintain the 1” spacing for the foam board that would cross over between the wood that I left alone (to the right of the new beam) and the new beam itself. Kind of what you’re suspecting I think.

In hindsight, thinking through what you’re saying a bit, I could have notched the foam and not cut the 4x4 on the top there. I could see that working fine. Nice improvement, and saves some work with the saw too!

I guess the only thing to be careful of is to make sure the foam with notch has a nice matching straight line so that as it is all glued up, the strength of the wall is maintained as much as possible. Should be doable for sure though.
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Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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Old 01-15-2024, 05:26 PM   #148
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Ok, I am replacing the beam full length on both sides, so I think I will just notch the lower frame area.

Thanks for your reply!! And for all the work you went through to document the whole process, it is really helping me out and giving me ideas (ideas could be a good thing or a bad thing, time will tell.)
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Old 01-15-2024, 05:44 PM   #149
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Youíre very welcome, and Iím just happy this thread and those picture are helping out from time to time. Good luck on your continued rebuild, these are worth saving if we can
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2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)
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