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Old 10-17-2016, 10:13 PM   #1
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Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Gilbert, AZ
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Smile I Lowered My Battery Box

As the relatively recent new owners of a 2007 24T Towlight, we couldn't help but notice that the single battery would not come close to what we need when boondocking. So I lowered my battery box this week so that It will now comfortably hold two 6-volt golf cart batteries.

I had never welded 1/4" thick metal before (that's what the battery box straps are made of), but I found my mig welder was easily able to do so. To do the work, I first raised the top section, measured the distance between the top section and the side supports, cut 2x4s to fit this distance and shimmed them in place. Then I opened the manual lowering valve to release the pressure in the hydraulic line so that I could remove the pump. I covered the end of the hydraulic lines with aluminum foil squeezed on tightly and held there with rubber bands. It worked well and there were no leaks. I disconnected the propane connections and treated them the same way. I took pictures of this, but they have since disappeared!

Next I removed the battery and took pictures of the wiring mess. Then I created a drawing of where each wire was connected. I made two drawings, one before I started and one as I removed the wires. In the process I even discovered an unconnected red wire going into the wire bundle on the left side of the trailer(?). I'll trace that out later. I was somewhat surprised to see that there was only one strap supporting the battery box when I got it out. After searching the forum a bit, I decided to add side supports connected to the frame just like someone else on the forum had done. I measured the angle to the new side strap additions (65 degrees) and the required length and cut the metal for these new side supports.

Next, I hack-sawed the present strap so that I could weld 3 inches of extension to the original strap overlapping each weld with a 1" lap joint (5 " total length). The front part of the strap was cut halfway down while the back part was cut flush with the bottom of the strap to leave room to weld it. After cutting all the metal the "before welding" picture shows what it looked like when clamped into position.


On the vertical additions I measured 1/2" from each end and drilled a 0.093 hole. Then on the front and rear part of the straps I did the same. Now I could put common finishing nails through the holes guaranteeing that the vertical position was correct and that no clamp slippage would affect it. After a bit of welding, the result is shown in the after welding pictures.



After it cooled, I primed and painted it, reinstalled the box and pump, and reconnected the wires. I used the manual pump arm to raise the top a bit to check that the fittings were connected correctly fitted (they were), made a battery hold down and checked out the electrical and hydraulic systems. I didn't replace any of the circuit breakers, but I think that I will in the near future. They have considerable weathering from the last 9 years.

All appears well and with the extra storage capacity I can now get on with the addition of a couple of solar panels.

Astroham
WB4IPB
Attached Images
File Type: jpg BeforeWelding.jpg (258.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: jpg AfterWeldingSide.jpg (237.2 KB, 24 views)
File Type: jpg AfterWeldingTop.jpg (282.2 KB, 23 views)
File Type: jpg Final.jpg (236.6 KB, 23 views)
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Old 10-17-2016, 11:37 PM   #2
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That's nice work, Astroham! From the pictures, it appears to me that the plastic box housing the batteries, pump and other odds and ends now just sits lower in the tongue frame? Knowing the height of the golf cart batteries, I'm pretty sure the top of the box is still above the bottom edge of the tongue frame.

- Jack
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:05 AM   #3
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Jack,

You are correct. Before any modification, the folded edge of the plastic box sat on the top edge of the frame cross member behind it. Now it sits 3 inches lower and 1/2 inch closer to the front. The frame height is 6 inches which gives plenty of clearance between the battery terminals and the metal cover. Ground clearance is 17 inches to the support straps when level. With the pump 3 inches lower it is easy now to get jumper cables on the battery terminals with just the manual pump access lid open (should that ever be necessary).

Astroham
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Old 10-19-2016, 03:32 PM   #4
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Nice work, indeed! As a former non-destructive testing (NDT) inspector, it's obvious you have welded before!

That was a mod I had considered before selling my trailer as I was interested in replacing the existing two 12V batteries with a couple of Trojan 6V ones. Let us know how it works out for you!
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Old 10-19-2016, 05:04 PM   #5
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Thanks, Luckydog. I have done several small welding projects in the past but I'm far from an expert. Preparation for this one was more than the others. I cut and fitted things for an entire day before the welding began and I obsessed a bit about whether my welder could get enough penetration to do the job (30 years as an engineer causes me to be a little OCD).

I had previously modified our Chalet XL1935 to put two golf cart batteries and a 100 watt solar panel on it (photo below). It was a great improvement. So when we got the Hi-Lo (more room inside) I knew I would have to do something similar. I'm still thinking about what kind of solar panels and how to get them mounted. The Chalet didn't give me much choice.

Astroham
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Old 10-25-2016, 12:34 PM   #6
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That's awesome! great job!
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Old 10-25-2016, 06:01 PM   #7
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I also lowered my battery box last year. But for a different reason.
My hi-lo is much older and i had lost the tall lid.
I did mine to cover the battery box/pump with a locked lid that was below the top of the tongue.
there are pics of the install under the community banner.
I always worried that some nefarious ba%&(*&^d would steal my battery and that is where I would be until I replaced it.
I only use a 1 battery system, but have a charging station in the back of my truck for a second battery.
clean look
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