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02-28-2012, 04:18 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyk52
Vdubn,
I'm going to use a combination of Liquid Nails and Henry 663 (doesn't dissolve foam) indoor outdoor carpet adhesive. Should be good for all temps.
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I spoke with J&R about using Liquid Nails, and they were pretty adamant about not using it, since it dries hard. They said that you need an adhesive that dries flexible, as our trailers flex a ton. I also stopped by my local trailer store to ask what they use in their trailers, and they showed me their gallon sized can of standard Contact Cement, which dries soft and adheres to foam, etc.
My father-in-law used to lay carpet, and said that Contact Cement should work excellent, so that was my plan. I'm not familiar with Henry 663, but will look into it.
I know that they make tons of different types of Liquid Nails, so maybe you found one that dries soft and will work well.
Quote:
Originally Posted by garyk52
I'm also going to cut 2 inch slots 1/2 inch deep in the styrofoam around the perimeter with my table saw and glue in plywood strips.
Cheers
GaryK
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I am also going to do this, as I have channels already cut in my foam, where there was like 1/4 or 5/16 plywood already, that was the anchor for the cabinets (it was totally rotted in mine, hence the reason my cabinet was falling from the roof). I was thinking of using OSB instead of plywood, as I thought it might be resistant to water more than plywood... any thoughts?
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02-28-2012, 08:13 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,089
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Discussion on what glue to use for repairs
Vdubn, could you start at the beginning of your story. Do you have a classic or a towlite.? It is it just one cupboard that you have to remount? Look under 90 Classic restoration to my description and pictures of each step of our restoration. We did our restoration this past fall 2011 and early 2012. We had to run our furnice to be able to have a consistent temp and for the bondo and heavy duty liquid nails to dry properly. We tried contact cement and it just soaked in and wouldn;t hold anything. I have just about a gallon of contact cement left that cost me $42.00 plus tax. No projects in mind to use this on. The point I want to make is that JR has the equipment to laminate 1" styrofoam insulation,1/4 underlay and 1/4 paneling to the walls. In a DIY situation our directions on the paneling called for liquid nails. We also used 1" paneling nails along the seams and stapled trim at the ceiling. Our paneling was left in the RV to aclimate prior toinstalation. I sure am not going to pull it off to see if the liquid nails dried out. We only use the Rv about one month a year. Dh has a large garden and plenty of lawn mowing weed wacking to do in the summer ect. I,m curious as to what JR would recommend to glue the lays together for repair. We tried contact cement.ragular liquid nails,liquid nails for foam board and none of this worked. My gut feeling is if it had been blazing hot then the contact cement might have worked. I,l let everyone know how the repairs hold up.
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02-29-2012, 10:03 AM
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#3
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: kentland,in 47951
Posts: 196
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sam, i mean no disrespect when i quoted what j & r uses or used to assemble my wall when they rebuilt my 88 22L, I was just trying to help a fellow hi-lo guy,and i wish that i had the help and knoledge to do an extensive rebuild like yours. I admire your extensive work, and the ability to try other application methods,i especially like how garyk52 tested and reported his findings to try to duplicate or better the "j&r way" this not only lets us know it can be done but also saves us a bunch of money, which we could all use for the raising gas prices. by the way, your work on your hi-lo which i have been following daily, is fantastic, it looks better than new!
__________________
robobd
1988 22l
1999 ford f250 7.3 diesel
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02-29-2012, 10:09 AM
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#4
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: kentland,in 47951
Posts: 196
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contact cement
when i apply contact cement to raw or bare wood, i always apply a heavy coat on the bare wood,let it soak in and dry for at least an hour, then reapply the contact cement to both application sides, let it tack up to being almost dry, then apply. I would test it first like you did with the weights
__________________
robobd
1988 22l
1999 ford f250 7.3 diesel
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02-29-2012, 10:45 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Berwick. Pa
Posts: 344
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vdubn
I spoke with J&R about using Liquid Nails, and they were pretty adamant about not using it, since it dries hard. They said that you need an adhesive that dries flexible, as our trailers flex a ton. I also stopped by my local trailer store to ask what they use in their trailers, and they showed me their gallon sized can of standard Contact Cement, which dries soft and adheres to foam, etc.
My father-in-law used to lay carpet, and said that Contact Cement should work excellent, so that was my plan. I'm not familiar with Henry 663, but will look into it.
I know that they make tons of different types of Liquid Nails, so maybe you found one that dries soft and will work well.
I am also going to do this, as I have channels already cut in my foam, where there was like 1/4 or 5/16 plywood already, that was the anchor for the cabinets (it was totally rotted in mine, hence the reason my cabinet was falling from the roof). I was thinking of using OSB instead of plywood, as I thought it might be resistant to water more than plywood... any thoughts?
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There's a reason OSB is less than half the cost of plywood. OSB won't hold screws as good as plywood. OSB doesn't like moisture. I don't like using OSB
Cheers
Garyk
Will LIQUID NAILS Adhesive products become rock hard after they dry?
No. LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products remain flexible to allow for expansion and contraction of the substrates.
LIQUID NAILS Adhesive FAQs
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02-29-2012, 12:16 PM
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#6
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garyk52
There's a reason OSB is less than half the cost of plywood. OSB won't hold screws as good as plywood. OSB doesn't like moisture. I don't like using OSB
Cheers
Garyk
Will LIQUID NAILS Adhesive products become rock hard after they dry?
No. LIQUID NAILS construction adhesive and caulk products remain flexible to allow for expansion and contraction of the substrates.
LIQUID NAILS Adhesive FAQs
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Good to know... I wonder why J&R were so against the use of liquid nails? Thanks for the info, I will be using plywood for my walls as well.
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02-29-2012, 04:07 PM
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#7
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Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Niagara Falls,NY
Posts: 4,089
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Discussion on glues.
Robod, no offense taken. I never thought to go on the site for liquid nails. I thought maybe we had goofed. Our directions from georgia pacific said to use liquid nails. If we didn,t we would have voided the warranty on the paneling. Our HiLo dealer also told us to use liquid nails. Our dealer hates wall rebuilding with a passion as it is very time consuming. Shure who wouldn,t love to have a factory rebuild(laminated process). Spent some time reviewing Mark Polk and his 69 Yellowstone and was horrified to see he only used a combo stainpoly on one side of his wall rebuild. He had to do tons of frame rebuilding and left all the wood bare. He used no glue whatsoever. Everything else he did on the trailer was aplus,very talented. Very scary to just reapply the old skin and depend on the caulk to prevent water intrusion. The old trailer did have a metal roof and he did replace it with a rubber roof. Thanks for the compliments on our restoration job. I was expecting it to turn out reasonably well as DH is a sheet metal fabricator with lots of additional course work and life experiences. Thanks for the explination on using contact cement. I do have a structure under our celler stairs that hubby painted redwood before I knew him. I hate redwood and we will be refacing. Probably could use the contact cement. I will try to do this in the summer when it is blazing hot. Wouldn;t know what to do withmy self if I didn;t have some kind of project going!!.
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03-01-2012, 11:51 AM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
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Gary, what are you using for replacement paneling in side of your trailer? I have been looking at the 1/8" bathroom paneling that is fiber-backed, at Home Depot, and it looks like it should work well. I will have to scuff it though, as its really smooth, then primer it, and paint it.
I was told by the fellows at J&R, that I could also primer my original vinyl covered paneling, with Kilz or BINZ, then I could paint it as well, that way the whole wall can match.
Just curious what your plans were.
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03-01-2012, 12:42 PM
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#9
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Berwick. Pa
Posts: 344
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vdubn,
if you go back to message 20 on this thread, you can see the paneling my wife and I picked out. I need 10 sheets at around $30.00 a sheet. That will do the whole top except for the ends which I'm not doing. I'm using plywood paneling with a vinyl covering. I looked at the paneling at HD and Lowes and most of theirs is hardboard or mdf and not plywood.
Cheers
Gary
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03-02-2012, 03:35 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Posts: 40
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Good Call.... I guess you are replacing all of your paneling at the same time. I may look at a local wood store to see if they have plywood backed paneling as well, but I need to paint all of mine anyway since I am not replacing everything.
Thanks for the help.
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