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Old 02-16-2016, 04:57 PM   #1
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Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
So, the former owner removed the Master Switch. That's not good. It keeps the top from being lowered if anyone is inside. And it helps to keep power from being delivered to anything but the refrigerator while you are traveling. Which will keep the hot water and water pump off, for instance.

I like your idea of restoring the original wiring plan.

Hang on, let me find the wiring diagram.

- Jack
I guess this is the mater switch you are talking about?

Hmm, maybe I should see where that red wire is going. Maybe thats the one that goes to the 12v block. That would make since ya'll talking about it shutting off power to certain things when switched off. If not its at least part of the missing link.
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:12 PM   #2
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I guess this is the mater switch you are talking about?

Hmm, maybe I should see where that red wire is going. Maybe thats the one that goes to the 12v block. That would make since ya'll talking about it shutting off power to certain things when switched off. If not its at least part of the missing link.
Well, that's where the Master Switch and the Lift Switch are supposed to be. The lift switch in my trailer is white and is spring loaded to the center (neutral) position. The Master Switch is black and has three positions - Up (interior), Middle (travel) and Down (Lift System activated). It will stay in any of those three positions.

Yes, DO trace that red wire! And, see my post just before your last one.

- Jack
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:27 PM   #3
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Well, that's where the Master Switch and the Lift Switch are supposed to be. The lift switch in my trailer is white and is spring loaded to the center (neutral) position. The Master Switch is black and has three positions - Up (interior), Middle (travel) and Down (Lift System activated). It will stay in any of those three positions.

Yes, DO trace that red wire! And, see my post just before your last one.

- Jack
THATS IT! Finally... That is the wire he cut and and just let hang under the camper. I Did a continuity test and its the same wire that supplies power to the 12v Block. Thank yall so much. Thats one major step in the right direction. Thanks Again!!!
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:34 PM   #4
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Well, that's where the Master Switch and the Lift Switch are supposed to be. The lift switch in my trailer is white and is spring loaded to the center (neutral) position. The Master Switch is black and has three positions - Up (interior), Middle (travel) and Down (Lift System activated). It will stay in any of those three positions.

Yes, DO trace that red wire! And, see my post just before your last one.

- Jack
Good to know. Time to get on Amazon and start finding those switches. Thanks.
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Old 02-16-2016, 05:36 PM   #5
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Please note: The wiring diagram showing the wiring from the motor has a mistake. The black #8 wire from start should go to the left terminal on CB-1, not on the right terminal. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...ry-wiring-116/
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Old 02-16-2016, 10:35 PM   #6
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Please note: The wiring diagram showing the wiring from the motor has a mistake. The black #8 wire from start should go to the left terminal on CB-1, not on the right terminal. http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f51/...ry-wiring-116/
Interesting, Rich. My trailer has that wire connected to the RIGHT terminal, as is the black 10 gauge wire to the tongue lift motor (through an inline fuse). But, the black 10 gauge battery charging wire from the trailer plug goes to the LEFT terminal and, the blue refrigerator wire goes to that left terminal too. Finally, my trailer breakaway is attached to the left terminal of CB#1 too.

I doubt it really matters, as long as the circuits are all protected somehow.

I don't think the people assembling our trailers really followed a checklist.

And motorpig, you MIGHT find switches that would work in ACE Hardware, or an electrical supply store if you can't find them online.

- Jack
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Old 02-17-2016, 07:27 AM   #7
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Interesting, Rich. My trailer has that wire connected to the RIGHT terminal, as is the black 10 gauge wire to the tongue lift motor (through an inline fuse). But, the black 10 gauge battery charging wire from the trailer plug goes to the LEFT terminal and, the blue refrigerator wire goes to that left terminal too. Finally, my trailer breakaway is attached to the left terminal of CB#1 too.

I doubt it really matters, as long as the circuits are all protected somehow.

I don't think the people assembling our trailers really followed a checklist.

And motorpig, you MIGHT find switches that would work in ACE Hardware, or an electrical supply store if you can't find them online.

- Jack
Maybe our trailer is wired wrong. But as you said, it may not really matter as long as the circuits are protected. I think it would be preferred as in the diagram in that the battery would be direct to the breakaway switch and the tow vehicle connection in case the breaker fails. The tongue lift has its own inline fuse. The only thing I question is that in the diagram is the power going to the rest of the trailer goes through two circuit breakers where only one would be sufficient. Am I right?
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Old 02-17-2016, 09:47 AM   #8
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Maybe our trailer is wired wrong. But as you said, it may not really matter as long as the circuits are protected. I think it would be preferred as in the diagram in that the battery would be direct to the breakaway switch and the tow vehicle connection in case the breaker fails. The tongue lift has its own inline fuse. The only thing I question is that in the diagram is the power going to the rest of the trailer goes through two circuit breakers where only one would be sufficient. Am I right?
You are totally right. That was actually fixed in my trailer too, but I didn't mention it in my last post. There is a short 8 Gauge black wire in the diagram running from the left terminal of CB-1 to the left terminal of CB-2. In my trailer, that wire originates from the RIGHT terminal of CB-1, which effectively connects it directly to the +12V terminal of the battery, bypassing CB-1.

I suspect there are two 30A circuit breakers so that two high amperage draws can exist together (for a short time) In my case, the refrigerator is powered through CB-1 and the rest of the trailer gets its feed through the Master Switch which receives its power through CB-2.

Disregard this post! I think I'm losing what little grey matter I have left. I'm going to try to create a readable drawing of the actual wiring to the circuit breakers in my trailer and will post it here. I made pen and ink changes to the circuit diagram, which I've been referring to in this thread, and somehow, I got it WRONG!

- Jack
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Old 02-17-2016, 01:45 PM   #9
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Default A Corrected Circuit Breaker Wiring Diagram

OK, this is correct (at least for my trailer) and should work for any other trailer with similar components. The only changes in the wiring I can find are at the two circuit breakers in the battery compartment, so that's the only part I'm showing.

I reoriented the wires in the diagram so there would be no wire crossing, which can be confusing. All wires carry +12V battery voltage.

Your trailer may have slight differences, but if you examine your wiring and this diagram, I think you will find they essentially are equivalent.

Sorry for some of my confusing posts earlier! And, I've added this diagram to the 2306 Primary Wiring thread in the Reference Library.

- Jack
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