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Old 07-14-2017, 09:48 PM   #1
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Default 2004 27t

Hello everyone,

Just inherited a 2004 27T from my uncle....long story short, I have no power to A/C or refrigerator. Circuit breakers are not tripped, do they need to be plugged in somehow ? Any clues ? I can hear the little girl in Forrest Gump asking me....Are you stupid ?
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Old 07-14-2017, 11:55 PM   #2
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Hi and welcome! You're not stupid, just new to Hi-Los.

First, the A/C WILL NOT run on battery power. You have to be plugged in to "shore power", and it needs to be a 20A circuit, minimum. (30A is better).

Then, you MAY have to connect a power cord, usually found in the bathroom so that power gets from the bottom half to the top half where the AC lives. I say "MAY", because my A/C power cord is permanently connected. (I think they went to the permanent connection in later models.)

The A/C will not function on AC power unless the "Master Switch" next to the "Lifting Switch" is in the "camping" position. It also has a center, "neutral" position and a lower, "lift motor" position.

Finally, of course, there's the possibility that a circuit breaker has popped.

Now, the refrigerator is supposed to work on AC, DC or propane. And it is completely "silent", unlike your home refrigerator. What happens is that a heating element or gas flame heats ammonia in a closed circuit causing it to circulate and transfer heat to the outside. It will take about 24 hours for the refrigerator to become cold enough to use after you start it.

When you say it doesn't work, how do you know? If you run the refrigerator on battery power, it will drain the battery QUICKLY, unless the battery is receiving a charge current from the tow vehicle. There is a 30A inline fuse on the DC circuit that could be blown. It is most efficient on propane. It WILL run on AC power from a 15A circuit if your converter is functioning.

And that's the last possibility: Shore power is fed to the "converter", and from there, AC power is delivered to the refrigerator and A/C. If the converter is bad, nothing will work on shore power and your battery will not receive a charge.

I've possibly confused you by now. There is a link to videos on Hi-Lo operation in the forum. Here's a link to the first one: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-youtube-1233/

Glad to have you with us!

- Jack
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:09 AM   #3
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U4ick, (unique handle). On my 27'er, the A/C power cord is in the bedroom, street-side and stored in the upper cabinet. It's plugged in the lower half near the floor.
Jack is correct in that it takes quite a while to cool the refer. And as suggested elsewhere on this forum, check out the videos on youtube, "Hi Lo owners manual". 35 videos system operations.
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Old 07-15-2017, 07:30 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
Hi and welcome! You're not stupid, just new to Hi-Los.

First, the A/C WILL NOT run on battery power. You have to be plugged in to "shore power", and it needs to be a 20A circuit, minimum. (30A is better).

Then, you MAY have to connect a power cord, usually found in the bathroom so that power gets from the bottom half to the top half where the AC lives. I say "MAY", because my A/C power cord is permanently connected. (I think they went to the permanent connection in later models.)

The A/C will not function on AC power unless the "Master Switch" next to the "Lifting Switch" is in the "camping" position. It also has a center, "neutral" position and a lower, "lift motor" position.

Finally, of course, there's the possibility that a circuit breaker has popped.

Now, the refrigerator is supposed to work on AC, DC or propane. And it is completely "silent", unlike your home refrigerator. What happens is that a heating element or gas flame heats ammonia in a closed circuit causing it to circulate and transfer heat to the outside. It will take about 24 hours for the refrigerator to become cold enough to use after you start it.

When you say it doesn't work, how do you know? If you run the refrigerator on battery power, it will drain the battery QUICKLY, unless the battery is receiving a charge current from the tow vehicle. There is a 30A inline fuse on the DC circuit that could be blown. It is most efficient on propane. It WILL run on AC power from a 15A circuit if your converter is functioning.

And that's the last possibility: Shore power is fed to the "converter", and from there, AC power is delivered to the refrigerator and A/C. If the converter is bad, nothing will work on shore power and your battery will not receive a charge.

I've possibly confused you by now. There is a link to videos on Hi-Lo operation in the forum. Here's a link to the first one: http://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f49/...-youtube-1233/

Glad to have you with us!

- Jack
I have to disagree with Jack on a couple of things. The A/C will work no matter what position the master switch is in. The A/C operates on 120volts and the master switch controls only the 12 volt circuits with the exception of the refrigerator. Also, the converter proper has no control over the 120 volt circuits. The converter only supplies 12 volt power to those circuits and controls power to and from the battery. However, the 120 volt breakers are located next to the converter and they control power to the A/C, outlets, and the converter. The fridge is wired directly to the battery as is the fridge cooling fan which allows both the fridge and fan to work while traveling down the highway.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:07 AM   #5
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Well- I'm going with Jack on this one- or at least he is correct some of the time on this.

On my trailer- if the master switch is in the neutral position then I DO NOT have ANY 120 circuits working , including the air conditioning. Now, though I have never tried it- I assume if I found an adapter that would fit the AC power male plug I could run an extension cord out my bathroom window and plug it into a shore power receptacle somewhere and have AC. ------( I THINK). But, now, as I write this I realize I must drive out to the trailer now and see if all of this is true. In retrospect- I am not sure I have ever TRIED to run 120 circuits in the neutral position while plugged in- I just seem to remember I have. I'll check, unless jack checks first (his trailer is parked in his yard).

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Old 07-15-2017, 12:41 PM   #6
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Ah, Rick - you give me too much credit!

RichR, thanks - I'm sure you're right about the Master Switch controlling only DC. I was thinking of the wording in the Hi-Lo manual regarding the function of the Master Switch.

I took a bit of "license" regarding the Converter. Since all AC power comes in to it, it would be a likely "choke point" if there were AC things that didn't operate. And, if you look at the wiring diagram, AC power goes "through" the Converter box, as does DC power from the battery, through the Master Switch. It wouldn't be a stretch to think that the Master Switch could also cut off everything that went through the Converter.

Looking at the wiring diagram, the only "active" thing the Converter does is to transform AC to 12V DC to charge the battery. Otherwise, it's just a circuit breaker and fuse holder. All the work is done in the "charger" section.

AND, there IS a 30A inline fuse on the DC feed to the refrigerator, so that is a potential problem point too. There's also a 1A inline fuse to the refrigerator fan.

So, not trying to be a smartass, just trying to add to the discussion that clarifies the confusing electrical system.

- Jack
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Old 07-15-2017, 03:03 PM   #7
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Who's on first? I just stepped out to my 2003, I have a dehumidifier running full time here in S W FL. Very humid. Anyway, with that running, I went through the switching on the master, I DO have full time 120v hooked to shore power. So my master switch does not interrupt 120v. Perhaps, SOME units master switch might control 120v in "lower" and/or "travel" position. Course I don't think you'd have shore power hooked up when traveling.
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Old 07-15-2017, 04:34 PM   #8
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It would probably be good if the master switch or an accompanying master switch controlled the 120 volt operations. The master switch only connects the battery to the converter or to the lift pump via a hefty #6 wire. The converter runs off a branch circuit from the breaker panel which happens to reside in the same enclosure as the converter.

I got educated on the operation and wiring of the converter last month when I had to replace the converter in my daughter's Aliner. It had a 20amp Elixir converter which was going bad. We replaced it with a MFCO 25amp converter which is almost a direct replacement. Elixir which is also in Hi-Lo is no longer available.

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Old 07-15-2017, 04:46 PM   #9
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Maybe what we all call the converter should be called the the power center since the converter is only part of what's hiding behind the panel.
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Old 07-15-2017, 11:59 PM   #10
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I think you're right on what to call it Rich, but its name IS "Converter".

If you have to locate a replacement, you're stuck with the "name".

- Jack
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:23 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JackandJanet View Post
I think you're right on what to call it Rich, but its name IS "Converter".

If you have to locate a replacement, you're stuck with the "name".

- Jack
Yep! It's just one of those things.
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Old 07-16-2017, 06:34 AM   #12
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Hello everyone, thank you so much for your replies !!!!

I have found what looks like yellow romex that appears to be the feed to the A/C. On the breaker panel I see the same yellow romex on the 20 amp breaker labeled A/C, it has a tag on it that says " top ". Only problem....breaker is not tripped and there is no power at the unit connection. I have the camper parked at a rec. area at a lake 5 miles from my house hooked up to 30 amp service. All the wall outlets read 120v. Bad breaker ? I can find no plugs in bedroom or around bathroom. I am going back out there today with an extension cord to hook up directly to unit. Do the breakers go bad and open?

Thank You !!!!!!
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Old 07-16-2017, 08:01 AM   #13
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Breakers CAN go bad, but I suspect that is not the case.

I think you don't have the cord from the bottom half to the top half connected. It will be a black cord that is very heavy. You might find it coiled up somewhere in a cubby in the bottom half. Look for it in the bedroom or bathroom areas.

If you locate the cloth covered wire bundle that gets all your DC power to the upper half fans and lights, I'd think it would be close to that.

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Old 07-16-2017, 09:01 AM   #14
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On my HiLo the AC power cord is stored in a cabinet, top half, drivers side in the back bedroom and has to be pulled out and plugged into a receptacle on the end of the wardrobe. That receptacle is a groundfault one so if it is tripped you have no power. When the cord is stored in the cabinet there is a plastic cover that closes that opening so you need to find that power cord in the top half and plug it into the receptacle in the bottom half. That yellow romex runs the power from the power converter to the receptacle. As Jack said the power cord that plugs the top to the bottom is a large black flexable cord.
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:09 AM   #15
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Hello, Thank You again for your replies !!!

I don't know how to say this but.....and this must be an old story.

When I went back out to the camper I brought my wife with me and I told her about not being able to get the A/C or refrigerator to work and that I was bringing an extension cord to hook directly to the A/C. I told her that there was supposed to be some kind of a plug somewhere but there was not.
When we went inside it was very hot and humid and we were both sweating profusely. She sat on the end of the bed and I proceeded to hook up my bypass wiring. While I was twisting a scotch lock she asks me " Honey, what's that for? " I look over at her and she's pointing up at a round white thingy that looked like a speaker on the bottom of the cabinets near the foot of the bed. On closer inspection I could see what looked like a sliding latch so I slid it back and it popped open and a big grey male plug jumped out about 6 inches......I jumped back like it was a King Cobra !!!!
So......to answer the little girl in Forrest Gump....Yep.....Dumb as a hubcap!!!
So now my A/C is blowing out ice cold air and the aluminum fins in my refrigerator are getting cold....funny how that works.
I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer but......

I am a proud new Hi-Lo owner and one Happy Camper !!!!!!
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Old 07-17-2017, 09:14 AM   #16
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Funny! Glad you found the cable! And, glad everything works!

- Jack
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Old 07-17-2017, 12:37 PM   #17
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Two sets of eyes are better than one. I'm glad you got things going.
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Old 07-17-2017, 07:07 PM   #18
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We have owned our HiLo since 2001 and are still learning some things. Every campsite is slightlty different. Took me years before I discovered the bathroom faucet had a loop that I could tie the stopper to it.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:05 AM   #19
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While I was at the rec. area I was trying to figure out how to remove the plastic grill that I presume covers the rear of the refrigerator from the outside so I could check voltage at the plug, I was afraid if I just jerked on it it might break something. A neighbor sauntered over to chat and I asked him how to remove this grille......beats me he said, anytime I have an issue I just drop it off at Camping World.

Must be nice to be rich, or to be able to make other people rich.
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Old 07-18-2017, 09:18 AM   #20
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Mine has "quarter turn" flat screwdriver latches that hold it in place. Don't just "yank" it! Look for some kind of latching devices.

My trailer only went to the trailer repair man while it was in warranty.

- Jack
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