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| Plumbing Fixtures, pipes, pump and water heater |
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#11
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My first water pressure regulator was a plastic one. It didn't last long. I replaced it with a brass regulator. I am now using the same brass one on my second trailer. I agree with using the regulator on the water spigot. That way it protects your water hose and the water lines in the trailer. I also use a brass quick disconnect to attach the hose to the trailer. This makes the hook up real simple and easy.
Bob
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2001 2901L Classic 2011 Ford F150 |
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#12
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SAVE MONEY AND TIME
just turn the hose on no more than half way |
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#13
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Sue,
Good idea, but only partially correct. Throttling the supply can somewhat reduce the pressure in a flowing water system (while a faucet is open), but as soon as the trailer system becomes static (faucet closed-no flow), pressure will rise to match the pressure of the city or campground water supply (Pascal's Law). Keeping the water supply valve partially shut will, however, help if a trailer pipe does burst due to over pressure... by reducing the water flow into the trailer. Similar to the water pressure regulator on your house (assuming your house has a need for one), the simple pressure regulators used for trailers will maintain a lower preset pressure (usually 45 psi) even if the water system is static. Some city water systems provide water at pressures as high as 100 psi, or more! Jim
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1967 17' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1967-1969) 1969 19' Hi-Lo Bon Voyage (1969-2011) 2004 27' Hi-Lo TowLite (2010-present) 2007 Chevy Suburban Last edited by JMDoering; 04-13-2011 at 01:36 AM. |
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#14
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I agree Jim, turning the water on part way does nothing to limit the pressure. A good practice to follow for good insurance is to turn the water off at the supply point when you are not there, that takes care of Murphy and his cursed law.
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Great Wife, Joyce 2010 2310H Hi-Lo 2012 F150 4X4 SuperCrew EcoBoost w/Leer Cap Reese WD Strait-Line Hitch Amateur Radio K3EXU |
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