2007 23C Rebuild - Page 5 - Hi-Lo camper travel trailer forum

JackandJanet · 02-24-2024, 09:05 AM

Thanks Rahn - I just PM'd Janet and Rich about this - I included you in that one but mispelled your username (RahmA) and so you are getting a separate copy of what I sent. Yes, I'll figure out a proper place for the files if we get them and they will go in a separate "sticky".

- Jack

RahnA · 02-24-2024, 01:45 PM

I have installed my third outrigger on the passenger side, I will install the third outrigger on the driver’s side when I get to that wall.

I got the idea from oldcarguy and had some 2” tube steel laying around (and my wife called it junk!)

Granted I have been moving around for 6 or 7 years, but still, you never know when you might need a piece.

Anyway, cut a set to length, primed them, painted them, and then welded the first one in place. I am pretty sure this will take a lot of stress off the wall frame and roof.

The hole in the tube is to run a 3/8” bolt through the tube and secure it the floor joist/rib (?) that the outrigger is up against. Even though it is welded in two sides to the frame rail, and at the edge of the floor joist/rib, I just felt better bolting the two together as well. (What can I say, I grew up on a farm, we always over-build everything!

)

JackandJanet · 02-24-2024, 02:24 PM

And another great idea! Having the third outrigger (towards the middle) will certainly take stress off the framing on the door side during travel.

- Jack

RahnA · 02-26-2024, 05:15 PM

Started cleaning up the steel radius rail between the roof and the wall. As mentioned a few months ago, when the camper was initially built they placed what looks like masking tape on the steel radius rail and a green film of some sort on the aluminum roof panels.
Because of previous leaks the majority of the paper type masking tape disintegrated and the steel radius and aluminum roof started a galvanic corrosion process. Most of the damage is to the steel radius piece (although the roof is bad and will be replaced.)

I did a lot of searching for a steel replacement radius, but didn’t find anything that would make the smooth transition between the roof and the sidewall. So, I will clean up what I have and make it work.

In one of the pictures you can see the white powder that was at one time aluminum roofing.

Seeing the different stages of decomposition is interesting, as well as shocking. (The roof really didn’t look all that bad, on the outside anyway.)

sam · 02-26-2024, 09:16 PM

We haven't had to do this repair. On both our HiLos DH replaced the plastic trim where the roof meets the body. Guaranteed to give you sore fingers and then the trim shrinks. We also cleaned up the track that the plastic trim sits in. Here is a resource we used. Steele Rubber products. steelrubber.com 1-800-230-5897 Ask for a catalog. we used the rubber insert trim on page 9. The one that fits 5-8" tract. Shrink problem solved. Problem solved. No more plastic insert. We like the black rubber trim and it looks much better. Perhaps you will find some other products in this catalog you can use. Best of luck with your roof repair. We have a mechanic friend that does APlus rust proofing. It is a step above Ziebart and only has to be renewed every thre years. I probably will just inspect underneath and not renew the rust proofing on the HiLo. We never take it out in the winter. We get our F250 renewed. It is due and we will do it in April. He has the vehicle for two days. I just rent a car for a few days. Take Care, Ann

sam · 02-26-2024, 09:25 PM

You make me laugh as DH has scrap Metal at our house from his career as a sheet Metal fabricator. He has long poles that he uses to stake up tomatoes. If he ever needs anything his former employer will make up anything he needs. In his younger days he could have bought an Airstream and restored it. It truly would been one of a kind with parts he would have made at work. Isn't hind sight a great thing!!

RahnA · 02-27-2024, 08:23 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam

Here is a resource we used. Steele Rubber products. steelrubber.com 1-800-230-5897 Ask for a catalog. we used the rubber insert trim on page 9. The one that fits 5-8" tract.

Thanks Ann, I will check it out. I always appreciate timely suggestions and ideas that are out of the box (or in the box if I ordered them.)

Yes, hind sight is always 20/20, or at least it is in our perspective.

RahnA · 03-02-2024, 11:00 AM

The past week has been spent removing the ceiling/roof. I was surprised that the parts that were good, were really good and held on tightly. I was also surprised that the parts that were bad, were really bad and I think if I sneezed it would have blown off. (On second thought, I did sneeze a number of times and it didn’t blow off.)

I also spent a couple days with a wire wheel on my angle grinder removing rust on the roof frame. Overall it has cleaned up nicely. I still have about 5% of the frame left to clean. I am painting it with RustOLeum once it is all cleaned up just to slow the future rust down some.

sam · 03-02-2024, 09:19 PM

I showed DH the roof destruction. Our roof is soft in some spots. DH used externa bond tape and the aluminum roof coating x2. If you do a good job you could have a side business repairing HiLo roofs.!! Will probably have our HiLo dealer do a roof overlay at some time in the future. DH used rustoleum on any rusty metal when we did our repairs. If you really want to spend $ use por 15. Many use por 15 on the Airstream forums. It is used on the trailer frame. Cheering you on with this big job.

RahnA · 03-05-2024, 11:36 AM

Thanks Sam, yes, POR15 is some really good stuff but like you said, expensive! At some distant time in the future I may decide to do the frame.

We will see if I survive THIS remodel before I decide if I want to hang my shingle out.

JackandJanet · 03-05-2024, 04:15 PM

Rahn - Janet just got back to me and she's authorized the upload of the 3D printer files. However, there may be an issue if they're too large.

Go ahead and try to upload them to this thread. If you're successful, I'll copy them to a new thread where they will be easy to find. I think the size limit is 19MB, so if they're bigger than that, we'll have to work something out. Give it a try and we'll see what happens.

- Jack

RahnA · 03-07-2024, 05:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JackandJanet

Rahn - Janet just got back to me and she's authorized the upload of the 3D printer files. However, there may be an issue if they're too large.

Go ahead and try to upload them to this thread. If you're successful, I'll copy them to a new thread where they will be easy to find. I think the size limit is 19MB, so if they're bigger than that, we'll have to work something out. Give it a try and we'll see what happens.

- Jack

Thanks Jack! I will give it a try!

Here are the four different files for a 3-D printer guide blocks. All the files are the same, just a different format for different printers.

RahnA · 03-07-2024, 05:49 PM

After completing a few minor task and more than one prayer, the right side wall is in place!!

The new guide blocks look like they will work great! Cables attached and lubed, I won’t fasten the top rail until after I have the interior ceiling in place. (The 1/4” ceiling plywood is sandwiched between the wall and the roof frame to keep the steel roof frame away from contacting the aluminum wall frame.)

(Ann, I know you are curious how I did it. We moved the wall into place with the rear section on a small dolly and I carried the front half. The DW just walked along and guided it. Once close to the correct place, I lifted and set the front end on the outrigger. I then went back to the last outrigger and lifted the wall up and placed it on the outrigger. Then we stacked three 2x4’s together and the DW set them between the outrigger and the upper wall when I raised it higher. That gave us enough slack to hook the cables. Once the two cables were hooked, and I had marked where the guide blocks fit exactly, we removed the 2x4’s and we could swing the lower part of the upper wall outward (after we strapped the top so it wouldn’t move outward.) That allowed enough room to screw the guide blocks down, once they were secure, and the wall back in position, I slid the guides (which I had removed) back in place and placed a screw in the lowest hole and two screws in the top two holes. The rest will be put back in after we raise it up when finished. So I didn’t need to phone a friend!

)

JackandJanet · 03-07-2024, 08:15 PM

Rahn - Thank you SO much for uploading those files, especially since you had more important things to do.

Your rebuild is really coming along nicely! That was a clever bit of thinking in putting on the guide blocks BEFORE reattaching the sides. This thread has become a real gold mine of hints, tips, methods, techniques, etc., in trailer rebuilding. You've done a great job with it and in letting us know how you did every step.

I'm getting ready to go out of town for the weekend, so will set up the new, separate thread for the guide blocks later. I'll also leave them in this too, so they'll be more "findable".

Edit: I've created the new thread in the "Lift System" sub-forum. If any of our members are more knowledgeable than me regarding 3D printing, feel free to correct any mistakes I made in the first post in that thread. And, if any of you have a 3D printer, I'd love to know your experience using one of these files to create a guide block.

- Jack

sam · 03-07-2024, 08:22 PM

You certainly did a very good job getting the wall in place. It was a back smart job!! Perhaps those that do repairs will use your method.

RahnA · 03-09-2024, 04:24 PM

WOO-HOO!! Left wall came off today! Wasn’t much holding it, and I’m glad it is on the floor now.

I was amazed at how much mold was in this wall. The interior wall looked solid and there wasn’t much sign of outer wall delamination either, but the Filon basically fell off except the last couple feet of both ends.

I guess it just goes to show that walls can look ok but they may be hiding some secrets.

sam · 03-09-2024, 08:56 PM

You have some good material for a burn campfire. Same thing goes for house remodeling. You don't know what you are dealing with until you rip it apart.

RahnA · 03-10-2024, 02:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sam

You have some good material for a burn campfire. Same thing goes for house remodeling. You don't know what you are dealing with until you rip it apart.

Yup, that’s a fact! Been through a few total (home) renovations, each time the DW says, “Never again!” But yet, we do, and we are.

Not sure if it is addictive or habit forming, but it is always interesting! And fun to make it ‘our own!’ (Most of the time!)

RahnA · 03-17-2024, 04:53 PM

Just a quick update so you don’t think I gave up or quit the project.

Driver’s side wall material has been removed from the wall framing. The framing has been cleaned up and ready for gluing the 1/4” wall panels (plywood) back on.

The outside 1/4” paneling (plywood) has been glued on and drying. Now to cut the 4x4’s to attach to the lower rail frame.

JackandJanet · 03-17-2024, 05:51 PM

Dang - I really love the work you are doing on that unit, Rahn!

I just ordered a 3D printer that is able to handle CF filament. Found a Flashforge unit for a great price on Amazon, so will be able to try out one of your guide block files soon. I didn't really need this, but with my background in Computer Science, I've been wanting a 3D printer for some time and this gave me a good excuse to pull the trigger. Hopefully, I'll learn some tips that I'll be able to pass on to our members in the Guide Block Files thread I posted.

I think YOU are now our "expert" on the construction of HiLos. Any questions on rebuilding should go to you.

- Jack