When DH and I removed all the windows to realign with butyl tape we also found one window opening was cut a little big. DH shimmed it up. Many owners have come across this problem when they were rebuilding.

I think you're going to have a "museum piece" when you finish. Perhaps it should go to the Smithsonian, when you're finished using it.

- Jack

Yeah, and me along with it!

__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Great idea. Some of those window openings, like you noticed... are a bit 'overlarge.'

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

I figured I better put an update out there before I forgot where I left off.

The left wall Filon is glued and complete with the openings cut out and windows fitted. The cable brackets are mounted to the 4x4. Once I get the third outrigger welded onto the frame for the wall to sit on when lowered, I will be ready to mount that wall.

Then onto the ceiling/roof, yay!

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__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Sometimes, it really helps to have heavy stuff lying around, doesn't it? Pretty work, as always!

- Jack

Cheering you on as you get to your ceiling/roof rebuild. Do you have to rebuild cabinets or anything else in the interior?

Yes it does!! And I find as I get older, the heavy stuff gets heavier!!

__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Thanks! Fortunately all the cabinets are in great shape, so that will speed up the process.

__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

I now have the third outrigger installed on the left side. It is placed right in front of the front axle, almost center of the camper. I wanted/needed a third one on the right side to help prevent doorway sag. So I figured it couldn’t hurt to place one on the left side as well. It may reduce any excess stress on the upper half going down the road.

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Great modification, Rahn! I think two outriggers are too little for longer trailers. As far as I can tell, they work fine on the shorter ones like mine though. Galloping down the road, especially on a couple of the back roads I've taken, has got to put a lot of bending stress on the center section of the upper half. A middle outrigger will certainly counter that.

- Jack

That was my thought as well. And with the new outriggers almost in line with the A/C, it can only help prolong bad things from happening.

It seemed like a good day to work on some odds and ends.

The original tan skirting looked, well, old! And it was different shades of tan. So today I tackled the left side. The DW vocally approved and I like the new look!

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Gray looks super on these, nice visual upgrade. I like that new outrigger too...

So question for the experts here: the 24'er that i have never had any at all. And has the roof sag to prove it, especially over the entry door where the wall is especially flexible. If I try and add something at this point, am I just asking for more problems as it now re-flexes back the other way?

I could see it either helping, or it could open up some gaps in new places and be more of a problem than a solution. Keep in mind I rebuilt the side without an outrigger added, so it has been rebuilt sag and all. One of those "wish I had thought of that problem at the right time" things.

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

Great question! And the only issue I can think of would be possibly the area around the windows that would flex just enough to allow water penetration? But I also wonder if the wall is dry would it even/ever flex? I can see why a damp wall would eventually flex/sag but I don’t know if a dry wall would unless the wall actually cracked.

As you can see, I don’t really know, so I’m not an expert on this, and have limited experience.

__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Northern, I'm hardly an "expert" on this, but remind me - Didn't you reinforce that section of the side better than the original framing? I seem to recall you doing that.

If so, I think you've probably taken care of the issue. And, if you were to install a third set of outriggers now, since you HAVE some sag built in, the roof would be supported on just that new set until things bent back the other way. This would put a lot of stress on joints in this area and, like you, I'd be worried about it opening new gaps.

I'd say, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

- Jack

__________________
Hi-Lo 1707T - Tire Minder TPMS on Tow Vehicle and Trailer, 300W Solar Battery Charger, Equal-i-zer WDH, Progressive Dynamics Converter, Fan-Tastic Fan, LiFePO4 battery 12V DC Electrical System
2014 F150 Platinum 4x4 3.5L EcoBoost SCrew

Thanks all, good thoughts.

I did do a little bit of work in the area, but sometimes as I look at the sag I wish I would have done better. You're probably right about the 'ain't broke don't fix it.' And you've got a great point about bending it back the other way, even hammering it back the other way because of a bad bounce or two. That would probalby make it much worse.

Okay. Choosing to live with it and moving on ... and I'll stop looking enviously at the ones that have straight roofs

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

So far, so good! I just need to tweak the cables a little bit to get it perfect!

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__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Moving on to the roof section. I don't question the overall strength of the original frame, but it bothered me that the second bay from the front of the camper was only two 1" rails and that is also where the doorway is located. I also am aware that the majority of the strength of the camper comes from the sum of all the parts (i.e. plywood, foam, and frame.)

But, since I had an open canvas (frame) I decided to at least add a little more stability to that bay. (Both end bays of the roof frame are also 2-rail frames, but seeing how the end truss sits on the end frame, that doesn't bother me.)

So, I added two more rails to the second bay. I figured it was a good time to do it and it won't add more than a couple pounds to the total weight.

I also spaced them just wide enough to stick in the frame work for the front roof vent.

And yes, the reason for the multi-color frame is to use up almost empty cans of paint.

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__________________
2007 2307C Classic
2007 2500HD 4x4 GMC

Yes, extra frame! Looking good.

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)