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Old 03-02-2021, 07:49 AM   #1
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Default 2004 28c - alternative bunk locations

Hi everyone,
Getting ready to bite the bullet and purchase a 2004 28C this weekend. I know I've seen some models in the past that have the drop-down bunk, but we were tossing the idea around of doing something custom/alternative. Our model has the slide-out with the couch. Has anyone every built custom bunks in that space buy either removing the couch altogether or adding a bunk over the couch itself? The trailer is 3 hours away and I haven't had a chance to look at it up close yet to see if the walls of the slide out could accept supports of some sort.

Any other alternative bunk location/ideas out there that folks have done aside from the standard fold-down design that these units came with?

Something that came to mind as well is perhaps using the master bedroom. Does anyone have the dimensions of the rear bedroom? I'm wondering if it would make sense to remove the queen bed and turn that into two twin-size beds on the bottom and then fabricate some bunks that either hang down or something like that?

Thanks!!!!
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Old 03-02-2021, 04:29 PM   #2
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Welcome to the forum! The below link is the brochure for the 2004 year model.

https://www.hilotrailerforum.com/f52...-2004-hi-lo-6/

Here is the buyers checklist.

This was taken from NDgent's post here on the forum. It is a great go-by list. You can do a search of "thinking about buying" and find his post to read it first hand.

Basically, start with the visual items –
1. Exterior
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
2. Interior cleanliness of the unit-
• Look for water stains and discoloration on inside walls and around ceiling anywhere vents, skylights, windows, etc. exist.
• Push and prod with your hand on the inside walls for soft spots (which could indicate a water leak and a damaged or rotten interior wall).
• Check for bubbles in the wallpaper (a sign of delimitation or water intrusion)
3. Test appliance functions –
• lights
• fans
• refrigerator
• air conditioner
• heater
• water pump
• range hood
• stovetop
• oven (if equipped)
• microwave (if equipped)
• stereo (if equipped)
4. Lift System-
• Does the unit raise and lower properly
• Check the lift system for hydraulic leaks (puddle under the trailer)
• Check the lift cables to see if they are in good shape and not frayed
• Check the seal between the upper and lower body halves for tears or damage
5. fill the tanks to the top and check for leaks
6. Battery
7. Solar Panel (if equipped)
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Old 03-02-2021, 07:56 PM   #3
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Thanks Ruben!!!...but, that doesn't really answer my question LOL. I'm asking whether anyone has installed bunks in a custom way/location. I have a family of 4 and a greyhound and I was considering making 4 bunks in the back bedroom where the queen bed normally is (28C model).

Does anyone know what the interior height is when the top is all the way down? I'd probably build bunks by having the kids beds right on the floor and then our beds over theirs but how much vertical interior height are we talking about when the top is completely down????
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Old 03-02-2021, 10:40 PM   #4
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I've never measured the height from the floor to the ceiling with the top down, but I can crawl in there on my hands and knees with no difficulty. I'd say it's over 3 ft, possibly closer to 4 ft. I think the top goes up about 2.5 ft when it's raised? I know I can stand upright in the trailer (not under the top bunk though) without hitting my head and I'm 5' 11" now.

You MIGHT have room for a stacked bed, already assembled, but I bet you could work out something that could be "stacked" once you reach the camp site. I'm thinking of hollow tubes that could be placed at each corner of each lower bunk and then you could fit the legs of the upper bunks into it. For travel, the upper bunks could sort of "sit" on the lower ones. Still, the kids could effectively sleep at almost floor level, (kids don't care) which might give you the room to permanently mount an upper bunk over them.

We'd love to see pictures of this project when you complete it (and maybe some while you're doing it, too.) I don't think anyone has ever done this, and you are a true pioneer!

- Jack
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Old 03-03-2021, 07:57 AM   #5
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Thanks Jack! That's the kind of motivation I needed! Honestly, I'm aiming towards having something stationary in terms of stacked beds; although, the idea of a lifting type setup did cross my mind. I even imagined being able to attach the moving upper bunks to the roof so that the whole setup would raise itself as the roof was going up. But, at the end of the day, I may focus on a stationary stacked bed model for the time being. I think that's why I was so curious about how much vertical space is present when the top is down. We currently ahve a 1972 airstream that I built stacked beds into and it worked really well. There's about 29 inches of room between the top edge of the bottom bunk mattress and the bottom of the frame for the upper mattress. Gives plenty of room for turning over in the middle of the night without worrying about hitting your shoulder or head. If there truly is 48" of room when the top is down then I think it would surely work in the Hi-Lo as well....
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Old 03-04-2021, 07:40 PM   #6
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I have a 2007 28c...I will try to get out to get the dimensions of the rear bedroom top up/down this weekend...Will post when I have them.....
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Old 03-11-2021, 05:31 PM   #7
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We have a 2008 = 2808c and the kitchen is in the front and when you put the couch tip in the couch is on it's side and unless you made it feather light and attached to the floor as on ours has cabinets above and no way can i see what you want to do work. No way to support it on the upper wall in entirety and could damage it . We had a 19 footer and a 23 foot before and they had bunks and the difference is they attach at the rear with cables and when you lower the bunk there is a brace that hooks into the lower walls ledge.
what i had thought about one time was in the bedroom put a bunk in there and have the it as low as could get it so the top bunk when camper is lowered it would not be hitting the ceiling which should be about 47 inches from floor to lowest part of the ceiling. What we are doing is removing the queen bed and put a 30 inch bed on the passenger side and 50 inch on the other side.
a thought if you did the bed like you say you would have to have the upper one supported to the floor. But now you lost seating room.
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