Time for a little progress update. Full photos here as always:
https://flic.kr/s/aHskGjjPyn

I finished up with the first layer of new "encasement" around the wood beams that run the trailer length. For now it is MFM Peel and Seal Aluminum that you can get at Lowes. Easy to form, nice and thick. Sticks really well. I'll keep an eye on it though, the effects of road debris impact might require some future modification.

I've also got a picture of the new bulb seal I used on parts of the trailer. This is a 3/4 thick bulb seal that you can get a McMaster Carr.

https://www.mcmaster.com/#93085k85/=1910fz1

Nice and sticky, and it allows you to place it first ... then get it stuck. And as long as the old seal is gone, it can be done without separating the halves. Once it's in place, you can pull the strip of backing off and expose the adhesive layer. Which of course immediately sticks because the seal is sandwiched between the top and bottom halves and placed correctly. Again ... something I'll keep an eye on just to make sure the adhesive keeps it placed well.

And painting the inside has started. Lots of work to be done there but at least the white paint helps it look better!

I'm thinking about adding dehumidifier - has anyone had any clever ideas on how to plumb it? I don't really want to dump it daily but here in northern Louisiana I'm pretty sure that's what I'd be doing.

All the best.
-Leland

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__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

Why not AC I'm thinking of running a drip tube From my roof air into my water storage tank its so humid in Oklahoma.

The white interior looks great, in my opinion. MrEd is asking a legitimate question too, regarding the A/C vs a dehumidifier. BOTH will remove moisture from the air.

Will a dehumidifier run off battery power?

- Jack

Thanks and good thoughts on the a/c. I was thinking about that ... but was also considering that running something with the top lowered through the winter could be good. It would be hard to run the a/c regularly I think just because of the way it plugs into the lower half? Thoughts?

I think I did see one on Amazon that claimed to run off 12V if needed. But for the most part I'd have it plugged into shore power anyway.

It does sure generate plenty of water though, I hadn't thought about saving it and reclaiming it, but neat idea.

I think in the end the side walls will go darker, the roof and ends white. The final colors are still in flux though, my wife is helping by trying to find colors that look good together.

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

I'm not in a humid environment, of course. But - since my trailer is stored under a metal carport, I have both side windows open a bit (about an inch at the widest opening). This allows some ventilation, even with the top down.

I wonder if you did this and perhaps put a portable fan inside if it would exchange enough air to prevent mold buildup? Or, "sealed" with a dehumidifier plugged into a wall socket and the trailer connected to shore power? That would work too, if you had a way to drain the water. Perhaps a drain hose into the shower pan with the drain plug open, or, if you could set the dehumidifier higher, into the toilet past the valve. Then, you could simply open whichever tank valve it drained into and let it run to the outside (into a flower bed or whatever)?

Just "thinking through my fingers here". Maybe this could help you come up with a better approach.

- Jack

Humidity is only a problem when I'm working in mine. So I turn on AC now that its hooked back up. If your getting a mold problem or have one Tea Tree oil kills mold I sprayed it on anything that even look like it might be mold after stripping down the interior 2 tea spoons per cup of water. I also run a humidifier with tea tree oil mix in it. Trailer smells good and no mold

Still coming along. A few pics of paint going on.

I'm going to have to re-do the late 90's era green padded fabric that exists around some of the hard surfaces (like the drop down bed or cabinet ends). I remember those years well - Amtrak was using pastels of strange colors too! I've ordered up some foam-backed automotive headliner and we'll just do it like I re-did the
Suburban's interior roof.

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__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

Really pretty work, sir! You're going to have a trailer to be proud of.

- Jack

Very Cool looks good.

Great rebuild r67northern, you are doing excellent work. Since you have removed the ceiling and the roof I have a question you can answer.

I have a problem with my 2002 24' silver edition. The wall separating the bathroom from the rest of the trailer has dropped down from the ceiling. The screws have stripped out. I want to put in new screws next to the stripped out ones and am wondering how thick the ceiling ribs are. Seems like the origonal screws only went into the ceiling about 1/2". Can I use longer screws?

__________________
Tom & Shirley
2002 24D Hi-Lo Silver edition
2006 F150 FX4

Tom, are the screws that stripped out rusty? I would be concerned about water damage in that area if the screws looked rusty.

__________________
Fantastic Wife
2005 Toyota Tundra V-8 4.7L
2705T Tow Lite
1999 21T Tow Lite

No rust. Just stripped out of the holes. They are #10 X 1 1/2". Would like to use 1 3/4 or 2" replacements if the ceiling ribs will permit.

__________________
Tom & Shirley
2002 24D Hi-Lo Silver edition
2006 F150 FX4

Hi Everyone,

Good to hear they're not rusty, sounds like the roof is still solid then. I think you're talking about that interior "beam" that runs across the top and supports the folding walls at the back right?

Those screws are about 1.5" as I recall, but they're countersunk into that beam to different depths along the beam lenth because the beam itself, as you've noticed I'm sure, is thicker in the middle and thinner at the edges to match the interior arc of the roof. So the screws in the middle are buried deeper within the beam than the ones at the outer edge.

I guess the best answer to your question (sorry it took a few lines to get here), is that whatever you do, you only have MAX 1 inch before you go from the bottom of the roof to the top. The roof is layered, so there's about a 3mm sheet of wood on the inside, a 1 inch thick inner layer made of foam and a beam structure, and an outer 3mm wood before you hit the aluminum roof.

Does that help?

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

WOW! One inch? Guess I will have to put them back in the same depth. I will have to adjust the depth of the countersink for each screw so there is only 1/2 to 5/8 inch going into the ceiling. Now I know how much I have to play with. Thank you so much for the info and the quick response. I have some windows on the house to paint tomorrow morning. Hope I can get the wall put back tomorrow afternoon or Wed.

Hope your trailer redo gets done soon so you can enjoy it this fall.

__________________
Tom & Shirley
2002 24D Hi-Lo Silver edition
2006 F150 FX4

Glad to help, the way the factory set that up the screws are going into one of the metal cross beams so if you put new holes in the wood wall-holding beam I've had the best luck next predriling the metal beam with a good metal bit as the final step before the screw goes back in.

Thanks for the encouragement on my 24' I hope it gets used soon too.

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

Thanks for the info, r67northern. Just completed the job, looks good now. Hope neither of the hurricanes hit you so you can get your rebuild done.,,,AND GO CAMPING!!

__________________
Tom & Shirley
2002 24D Hi-Lo Silver edition
2006 F150 FX4

Glad it worked out. As for us, we're pretty close to Arkansas so it was a little damp ... but nothing worth mentioning. My biggest problem is this job I have to do getting in the way of HiLo building!

__________________
--
2000 24' Classic, "We have the technology, we must rebuild it"

Also in the garage, some stuff to pull it:
1999 3/4 ton 'Burb
1993 Roadmaster wagon (well, it probably won't pull it)

During our regular cable maintenance on our 1907T today (using PB Blaster to wipe/lubricate the cables), we found that the back/right cable has one broken strand, but the other back/right strands on that cable are still intact. Hubby said the other 3 cables (2 front and 1 back/left) look good. Should we replace all 4 cables, or just the back/right frayed cable?

We assume the cable(s) can be ordered from J&R Repair???

We checked the forum but didn't see specific information about replacing just one cable versus all cables. Whatever input you can provide will be appreciated!!

In the meantime, are there any concerns with us using the trailer (raising/lowering) until we replace the needed cable(s)????. We have several trips planned in the next two months.

Oldyweds
1907T
2013 Ford Explorer
Tire Minder (2 trailer tires/4 tow vehicle tires; ordered - will use soon!)

So sorry...I posted in error to your issue. I meant to create a new post. Please ignore.
Thanks.

Oldyweds

can you tell me what glue did you use to glue fiberglass planels on to plywood and plywood on to the back of foam insulation, tanks,bill