I suspect I will be dead before my panels! Monocrystalline are warranted for 10 years to deliver 90% of their rated power and I THINK they have a total lifespan of 25 years. I'm 76, so I doubt I'll have to remove the tape.

It CAN be removed however, with a lot of work. Someone here recommended using a heat gun. I just pulled some of it off to install the third panel. It was a difficult process using a lot of muscle.

So, if you remove yours, to position them better for sunlight, do you connect them to different wires?

- Jack

That makes sense.

I don't remove them for use. I didnt want to permanently mount them then not have access to the junction box or diode. It's just the way they are mounted. No holes in roof. I could tape the angle iron down, but couldnt really securely tape the panels down, so thus the mounting solution.

I understand now, thanks! Your approach makes sense too.

- Jack

Thanks for the suggestion for mounting to brackets. I want a way to remove mine if need be and where I live the "need be" is common due to shade. Still-while spending time in Texas that won't be a problem- so leaving on the roof would work, there. A Project I have not gotten to yet is removing the front cap to repair cracks and if I do so I have often speculated on installing wire behind the cap , maybe like the older hi-los with the "telephone cord" type coils. If so- it would seem I could enter my run from the roof at the cap edge and mount the controller in the overhead cabinets above the couch. The wires would run in and out from the front wall behind the cap. The wiring from the panels would not have to coil, then, just the run down to battery box. Jack- is the backing on those panels some type of fabric? I've often though of thin frame taped to the roof with marine quality turnbuckles installed and corresponding grommets in the border of the panels. Might be an interesting winter project. Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

Rick, I don't understand your question about, "...backing on those panels some kind of fabric?"

However, you need to know the controller requires ventilation, or it will overheat. I would not install it "inside" any cabinet. In fact, mine is actually installed too close to the ceiling, according to the directions. But, it seems to function OK since the area under it is completely clear. (It cools by convection.)

And, the wires that go from the top half to the bottom half WILL have to "coil" somehow. When you raise the top, the distance from the top to the bottom increases and then it decreases when you lower the top. The wire won't "stretch". Since the cap is completely on the top half, the coil can't be hidden in it. The coil has to be between the two halves.

Yes, a telephone wire type coil would work, and would act more like a "stretchable" wire, but the coil would still need to be between the halves. And, I have no idea where you'd find that kind of coiled wire in solar wire of the needed gauge.

- Jack

good points. For some reason I imagined your controller was mounted to the bottom half of the inside of your trailer but I think I am wrong there. All in all, I guess it works out the same. I wasn't thinking of actually mounting inside the overhead cabinets all the way but simply mounting it in that area rather than by the refrigerator where you seen to have yours-----but the fact it is too close to the ceiling is good to know.

By "fabric" I guess I meant flexible backing- and maybe that is not what you have. There are, of course, flexible panels out there that I know actually are capable of rolling up and though I would not need something that flexible i was thinking the thin ones were of similar backing. NO? Thus- where you "taped" to the roof on the border of a panel I was thinking could be attached (turnbuckles/grommets) to a similar "frame" taped to the roof and removed when need be and attached to a corresponding "frame" on a moveable tripod type stand (s). Of course- It would require a separate set of cables to attach to the wires running to the controller or a separate controller that went straight to the battery. Admittedly, that would be a rather pricey and overly redundant solution, though.
I may have to do some mock ups over the winter.
Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

Rick, my controller is on the end of an overhead cabinet, right in front of the dropdown bunk. It's not very near the fridge.

You certainly COULD bolt these panels to a frame, and the frame could be attached somehow to the roof. I DO think having a roof mounted, removable/mobile panel system would involve too many redundant parts though.

I have a kind of heavy curtain around the bath, but that is the only thing that is "flexible". Don't see how I could mount anything on it.

Mockups are a good idea.

- Jack

Jack-

I was thinking about something like this and thought yours might be like this because of the thinness. I guess that was more of my question/inquiry.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071L9NSMB?psc=1

My 2001 is configured a bit different than yours and based on some of the pictures I guess I assumed different location based on what mine looks like. One of the reasons i thought about running it through the cap was eliminating the potential of leaking on the roof but I guess I would just create new potential in the cap. Redundancy is an issue I guess, but mostly I see it as the addition of additional run of cable and a couple more connectors along with a couple lightweight "easel" type aluminum frames I could move around.

Rick

__________________
2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

Here is a way to mount framed panels.
There is L-shaped aluminum angle iron and the bottom of the "L" fits under the panel. I used VHB (very high bond) tape to just simply tape the angle iron to the roof, no holes; the angle iron makes a bracket.
I drilled holes into the brackets.
I drilled holes into the panel frame.
The solar panel bolts to the brackets at 4 locations. I did this twice as I have two panels up there. One panel was wider than the other btw.
I ran the wiring through the roof, one for each panel,making a hole under the panel so the hole is protected from direct rainfall. I also caulked the front of the first panel so no water will blow in while driving, leaving the back open for air flow or draining.
I caulked the hole also, which alone is enough to waterproof it.
On mine I chose to run a threaded rod clear through to the other side, and used a pipe inside the frame so it would not crush inward. BUT, you can simply use a self-tapping screw or machine screw to hold it together.
This way I can remove the panels should I ever need to do anything to them. It is not meant to be a way to remove them every time.

BUT, I think I like the flexible, thin, panels better for smooth air flow. I think I will do as the other guy did and tape the thin panels down on my current project, and hope I never need to remove them for anything.

My thought is to put enough watts on the roof so you do not need to aim perpendicular to the sun, or go finding direct sunlight.

Jack- I read back through the latest thread and the link to your added panel and we ARE talking about the same thing here, panel wise. Sorry if I crossed things up. MARININN- thanks for the photos . It is helpful and gives me additional ideas for mounting solutions.

Rick

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2201 TL

2010 Nissan Titan king cab SE
4x4

Yes, Rick, they ARE essentially the same kind of panels. In my installation, I ran the input wire through the hole in the roof that was already there for the TV antenna wire (I had to make it just a wee bit larger to do this), so, no new holes in the roof. And, it's sealed very well with Lexel.

- Jack

Wow, just read through this entire thread. Great info as I plan to put solar on my Hi-Lo. I just started my solar journey with 2 Renogy 100 watt panels (glass style) on the roof of my pole barn. I am refurbishing my Hi-Lo in there and use these with 2 batteries in parallel and a power 1100 watt power inverter for lights, etc.

Glad you've found it helpful, bob. I'm very pleased with the results of doing this. In another thread, I mentioned we recently did a trip to Crater Lake NP and stayed there 7 nights. Stopped at Lassen NP for two nights and then spent 4 more nights on the road to get there and back. Didn't have to use the generator at all. We were camped in partial shade at the National Parks and the three panels kept the batteries charged very well.

- Jack

Ok I'm going to start planning my solar system.
2- trojan T-145-plus 6 volt batteries 287ah
2- renogy 160 watt flexible mono panels( wired parallel)
1- renogy Rover 40 amp mppt controller
1- renogy bt-1 Bluetooth module
1-2000 watt pure sine inverter

Found batteries for 200 each local to me,I just need to track down 2 cores aghhh. I'm going to start with those. After that renogy is local to me so I'll start getting the main parts and the misc. I need to get.

I'm thinking of mounting the panels on top front of trailer and bringing wires straight down through front cabinet, quick and direct, from controller straight down to batteries. If I don't find room on front top cabinet for controller, I'll mount it inside with ventilation screen and pc fans inside to cool it down.(Should work) let me know what you think and Bluetooth module to watch over it from phone. I'm going to get welding on new front battery and pump box as soon as I get home.

Thing called a "gland" will help get it through roof.
With just 200 watts I think fans for cooling way overkill. Just have some ventilation. I suggest 300 watts if you plan to ever use the inverter. I have 200 and will do 300 next time.
Two 6-volt is the way to go. Three 4 volt would be better.
Put controller close to batteries. the controller might have lights, red, green etc, that will be very bright on a dark night, good or bad depending if you want the cabin lit. is also why mine is in cabinet.
I have mine in a closed compartment inches from battery box, I never got around to venting the cabinet and it does fine in the desert in summer.
I ran wires from each solar panel to the controller separately. Easier to troubleshoot down the line.

The flexible panels are neat-o. They are aero, light and easy to just tape on. The heavier, bulkier glass panels, cheaper, will last longer and take the heat longer. Unless you need light weight and super aero go with the glass panels.

You really do not need the bluetooth. you will be in the camper in any instance it would be draining, and when you are away it will just be keeping batt topped off. your body does not need yet another source of microwave radiation. The controllers do their job.
Boondocking extended cloudy/rainy days running the heater fan you will drain battery, you wont need bluetooth to tell you battery is low the lights will dim.
The inverter will drain batteries faster than anything else you have. Consider using only DC powered items. I have 2,000 inverter just to charge laptop battery back as there is no DC charger for it. That drains battery quicker than anything else and laptop is not pulling much power. I have to be ready for a powerless night if I use inverter too much. (I have two 6 volt golf cart batts too),
Use inverter early in the day so there is time to recharge after the heavy drain.

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1997 22L
Renovation complete!

Sounds like you have a good plan. I think, though, it would be easier for you to wire the panels in series like I did. That would deliver higher voltage and less Amps to your controller but would use less wiring and would give you lower line loss to the controller due to the lower Amperage. Your MPPT controller would handle either approach though.

- Jack

What I have heard is in series if one is shaded u get nothing and if 1 cell goes bad u get nothing but in parallel if 1 panel shaded it has no effect on other panel. I may run inverter and controller in compartment under couch with water heater and water pump, then only 1 ft to battery's. What's more important, controller closer to panels or battery's. If controller in top compartment, 1ft from cells, if controller down low, 1ft from battery's

location of controller won't matter, except that you can run the panels into controller separate then run one wire to battery. The one wire over short distance will be better unless it is heavier gauge than the panels' wires.
(one +,one-)

I've considered doing them in series just to be able to run lighter wire, but good point on the loss of one panel. I did lose a panel. I had an amazon flexible 100watt and it just quit working, took months to realize it. I replaced it with a glass panel.

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1997 22L
Renovation complete!

I would hold off putting any electronics under the couch at this point
I also have a 22 towlite and needed the space for my water system upgrade ( I do more dry camping than full hookups)

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Les & Patricia
2006 22ft towlite (replaces 97 21TL)
2006 Toyota tacoma pre-runner 4.0 L V-6 quad cab
w/ 98 chevy Powervision towing mirrors
2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 5.3 v8 (replaces Toyota)
2 Hobie mirage pedal drive kayaks

please let me know the water system upgrade